Local Strolls: Art Deco in Miami

Miami is a many-splendored thing, but for the most part, it isn’t known for being the most walkable city (we have heat and humidity to thank for that). But scattered about, there are pockets that lend themselves well to pedestrians. Among them: South Beach. 

Having lived all over the city, I know it’s not just tourists walking about there, either. During my stint in the area, I could easily walk from our apartment to restaurants, bars, yoga classes, 24-hour pharmacies, museums and, of course, the beach. More than that, I could enjoy some of the city’s most pleasant architecture all around me – plus the people-watching is top-notch. 

Things have changed a bit since then, but having just visited earlier this year, I know it’s still one of the best places for a stroll, especially thanks to the (sometimes cool) ocean breeze. My preferred route takes you by many of the area’s most eye-catching buildings and ends with my favorite spot of all.

South Beach is chock-full of restaurants and cafes, but sometimes something quick and easy (and affordable) for breakfast, like Playa Cafe on Washington Ave, is exactly what you need to fuel up before a walk. It’s a solid Cuban breakfast plus a cafecito for an added boost, all for about $10. I might also snag some pastelitos and empanadas here for a mid-walk snack.

Turning south, I’ll pass the now-defunct Cameo Theater (once a popular punk rock venue turned techno nightclub) and reach Española Way (a tiny stretch of peach-colored Mediterranean buildings featuring lots of sidewalk cafes and shops). From there, it’s time to walk toward Ocean Drive for a stroll between palm-tree-laden Lummus Park and many well-known Art Deco splendors. It’s always a treat to pass by the Cardozo (from There’s Something About Mary), Carlyle (as seen in The Birdcage) and the former Versace Mansion. I also like to peek and see if there’s a drag brunch going on at Palace Bar, a beloved LGBTQ+ fixture. 

I’m a museum nerd, so a quick stop at the Art Deco Museum halfway up Lummus is always an option. You can also just stop in their welcome center for more info on the local architecture and be on your way. And if it’s exceptionally hot, I love that I can always walk towards the glistening Atlantic and get my feet wet to cool off. 

Keeping southward are more Art Deco hotel beauties like The Avalon, Colony and Breakwater. On the Lummus side, I’m bound to see rollerbladers, gym rats pumping iron in Muscle Beach (a smaller Atlantic Coast version of the one on Venice Beach), volleyball players, the occasional model and the occasional eccentric local. When you live here, you do get to recognize some of the same faces. 

By the time I’ve gotten to my old neighborhood South of Fifth, it’s usually time for gelato. A quick stop at Gelato-go South Beach is a must. Afterward, I keep walking south till I hit Marjory Stoneman Douglas Beach Park – my sign it’s time to take one of the walking/biking trails toward the sand.

The end is always the best part, though: a few more blocks, and you reach the South Pointe Park Pier. It’s a tranquil spot to stare off into the Atlantic, wave to the incoming and outgoing cruise ships, and occasionally run into some cute-but-fierce feral cats.